Amphorae

As I mentioned last time I am working on a version of the outfit to the left for an event coming up soon in July. I wanted something with a hat to shade my face, and not too hot since we are going to be outside in the middle of a Virginian summer. The fabric gods were not kind, when I went to my local fabric stores. There was really nothing in the right weight, color, pattern, fiber, or amount; especially the amount since I need about 8 yards for the undergown and 10 yards for the overdress. Part of the problem is that there are no waist seams, so each piece has to be cut from a long continuous length of material. Also, those sleeves are about four yards by themselves. I resigned myself to ordering online, which I hate doing because it's so hard to be sure of the color etc without seeing it in person, and by the time the fabric arrives often there just isn't time to send it back and get something else. I went first to an oldie, but a goodie; Thai silks. I knew they would...

What on earth could that title mean? Well, everyone is very familiar with the iconic Tudor style; bell sleeves, triangular skirt with forepart, square neckline, gable or french hood, puffed undersleeves etc... And we're also rather familiar with Elizabethan style; ruffs, little hats or headdresses, higher or filled-in necklines, stiff skirts, padded sleeves, lighter colors etc... But what about something in-between? As a professor, I like having garments for my students to see, and something in a style somewhere between the two would help them to visualize how clothing evolved from one idea into another. With that in mind I present the inspiration.     Elizabeth of Austria, 1570 And now, to find the fabric and start on the chemise!

It's done! I ask your indulgence for the fact that the outfit does not entirely fit the form, as I myself am very small and still need to carve it down a bit to make the form me-sized. Until we have a reliably sunny day (maybe this week?) I won't be able to put it on and take nice photos outside. The project took about 18 days to accomplish and was machine-sewn except for where the stitching would show. The time crunch required it. The pattern was adapted and draped in places, and straight out flat-patterned in some areas. The bodice is corded with hemp cording, which can be found at most craft stores, or even with the garden supplies. The material is linen with some silk taffeta for the sleeves, and a cotton chemise. Future photos of the gown on an actual person will prove that the sleeve doesn't fit half so awkwardly as it appears to in this photo (grrr). As the research images appear to show, the gathered sleeve and the straight sleeve are made as two separate on...

I did manage to get the entire project done in time for the event this past Saturday, and was very pleased with myself for doing so without the customary sewing into any wee hours or hand stitching in the car. The downside to this is that I took very few in-progress photos towards the end, and did not get any pictures of myself in the outfit at the event. Sad panda. While I clean and rephotograph the project for later posting I leave you with just a taste via a few pictures I did manage to take. Bodice mock-up marked for alteration The marked mock-up next to the original pattern pieces Before and after shots of altering the back pattern piece "True-ing" the pattern pieces to ensure that they will work and have all the right markings The new interlining piece cut with seam allowance etc. I used the cording technique to stiffen the bodice just the right amount. This version is couched on. Front and back lined Bodice in progress Gown in p...

Based largely on shoes like the ones to the left, I have completed the adaptation of my shoes for the Italian outfit. I'm pretty pleased with the result, which is not, of course, 100% accurate, but is fairly passable. I started with the blank shoe... added elastic loops to the vamp and sides, which I then covered with trim... tied a ribbon through the loops where they were unsewn at the tops, and finished it off with a cockade made from the same trim I'd used earlier. C'est finis! As for the chemise; I ended up taking a shortcut (I know, boo, hiss) to make up for some lost time which occurred when my husband's outfit took longer than expected to finish. His was made to the highest professional standards I could manage, so that's something to be proud of anyhow. I used an old chemise, cut down the neckline some more, smocked a portion of it in green and yellow embroidery floss, and am hoping that the simplicity will work in harmony with the rest o...

Volia! As promise, here's the design for the new Italian outfit. I'm currently trying to decide between two pairs of cotton/silk/wool stockings; a cream pair and a blue pair. I like the color of the blue ones and they are lighter for the summer since they are silk, but then the cotton/wool ones could be dyed to a color and don't feature the anachronistic clocking on the heel. Decisions, decisions. The fabric for the gown will be mostly these three:-  The underskirt will be heavily pleated in the grass-green linen, with the simpler sleeve version in the same. The more intricate sleeve will be done in the striped gold and green taffeta with faux chemise puffs between the slashing. The overall fabric of the gown, though, will be the embroidered tan linen (which is why the portraits of the patterned gowns was so important to me). I also have some gold and green trims set aside, but we'll look at those later. And shoes? Well, those are notoriously hard t...

I threatened a while ago to make an Italian Renaissance costume and even though that perpetual Elizabethan project is nearing its end I shall proceed to do just that. My husband and I have an upcoming event in a few weeks, so naturally now is the perfect time to cram in two new projects (one costume for him and one for me). To start with I always like to do a little lot of research.   Always a good start; this painting, as it shows slightly different styles being worn at the same time, and a little of the underskirt. The Preaching of St. John. 1520. Note the all-over pattern on this gown, combined with the top of the chemise showing, the partlet at the shoulders, and the tightly-fitted lower sleeve. I love how the waist is just slightly higher than the natural waistline. Proof that this style of sleeve can be tied on as well as set-in. It features the same trim placement as in the first pictures as well. I'm thinking of doing two sleeve options; one like th...

Back from my honeymoon with lots to share about historical sites across the Mediterranean, and the museums who love them. First though I thought I would share some sites and vendors who are my go-to resources in the historical and costuming worlds. fabrics-store.com  This is the place for linen. The sell it in a wide variety of weights and colors, both in bulk and by the yard. I use them for both reenactment attire where it has to be really accurate, and for theatre; in fact I once did a show where all of the costumes were 100% linen. If you get on their mailing list and sign up for rewards points you get additional coupons e-mailed to you, and earn points for every purchase you make towards a future one. Richard the Thread  Every costume shop I've ever worked in has ordered from RTT, and it's because they are a great one-stop shop for everything sewing. Boning, elastic, hem puffers, millinery wire, curved rulers, dressforms, buckram, you name it. Shipping is fast and the p...